But the dealer experience is something rather differerent. Think of a visit as being similar to a trip to a top flight hotel, where everything is neat, clean and possibly too perfect

Pity any company that's trying to start from scratch in the luxury sector - there's an abundance of impressive German metal out there that competes hard for your hard-earned, most of which is very good indeed. Why would you buy anything else? Why indeed. But that's exactly what Infiniti's trying to do with its UK launch. And not only that, its cars appeared on the UK price lists bang in the middle of the worst recession in living memory. Are they brave? Foolish? Or just plain daft?

After testing the G37 Convertible, we'd say that parent company Nissan's decision to move into the UK is brave – but in no way foolish or daft. The G37 is an expensive proposition if you look at it alongside the BMW 3-Series or Audi A4. The list price of £41,900-£43,500 is steep, but in time-honoured tradition, once you start factoring in standard equipment and dealer back-up, the picture changes considerably.

Our test car is in GT Premium trim, which offers a seven-speed auto, adaptive cruise control, and a luxury leather interior that feels as good as it looks if you can ignore the slightly gauche 'Infiniti' branding embossed on the seat backs. As for the rest of the interior, it's mostly good – very good indeed. The combined sat/nav and stereo is easy to use, more than useful, and sounds delicious at full crank.

It's nice that there's a touch screen that you don't need to touch - thanks to the alternative of being able to use controller buttons, which are logically laid out if slightly confusing for a newcomer. The rest of the controls (aside from the starter button) are simple and self-evident, despite a heavily stocked standard equipment list.

Then there's that beautiful clock...

On the road, it's good, if not quite brilliant. Performance is ample, and the 316bhp V6 certainly punches above its weight (as it does in the Nissan 370Z), and is generally refined unless you're feeling particularly punchy behind the wheel. Performance is where you'd expect it, with a 0-60mph time of 6.4 seconds, and a maximum speed of 155mph - but the throttle is delightfully aggressive, and it's easy to plumb the power. In short, going fast is no effort.

But sometimes the chassis can't quite keep up. Admittedly, our test car was fitted with winter tyres, and on damp, cold B-roads, it was easy to get the rubber to break traction in a series of lurid power slides (in a straight line - with none of the driver aids switched off). So, we'll put that lack of grip down to the conditions.

Besides, it was a lot of fun.

When cruising, the G37 works well too. The ride's certainly more pliant than the German opposition, but damping can sometimes leave a little to be desired on the roughest of B-roads. The result is some bounciness, but then, given the upsides, it's a forgiveable handling trait. As for the steering, it does what it says on the tin - it steers, even if it's not the most talkative set-up available.

The roof is painless to operate, quiet if a little slow - taking 24 seconds to fold fully. But as an exercise in motorised gymnastics, its operation is a sight to behold.

But despite these niggles, we like the G37 overall. It split opinions in the office - mainly with regards to the styling. Some thought it bland, while others appreciated its understatedness. Exclusivity is another major factor - you'll not see another on your travels, and for many, that means a great deal. That luxury extends to the dealer network, too - there's only one at present, and expansion will be slow.

But the dealer experience is something rather differerent. Think of a visit as being similar to a trip to a top flight hotel, where everything is neat, clean and possibly too perfect; and your interface with the management is an accommodating concierge, who can't do enough for you. If that's your thing, you'll love the Infiniti ownership experience...

In summary, it's a good car - with few niggles - but in a sector where ability means much, and badge kudos even more, you might struggle justifying the G37's sometimes cerebral pleasures.