They look fantastic, they’re great to drive, they’re competitive in historic motor sport, they’re tough and reliable and they have that indefinable ‘cool’ factor. Pre-impact bumper 911s are wonderful machines, but prices vary wildly according to the model and it’s easy to get into expensive trouble. 

The pre-1965 911 dominates historic rallying and the RS Carrera is prefect for top-end road events such as Tour Auto – but prices are sky-high. Next down is the 911S, in many ways more useable than the RS, but prices have risen sharply over the last few years. But the lower-powered models, like the 911T and 911E, still offer the 911 looks and driving experience, for much less money. They’re not nearly as quick but they’re a lot of fun. 

The other dividing factory between models is down to wheelbase: the tail-happy nature of the early cars is well known but when the rear trailing arms were extended to increase the wheelbase, handling was improved to the extent that few will be caught out.

Have we missed anything? Yes; you’re thinking you want a coupé, right? But early soft-window Targas are super-rare, and later Targas offer open-top motoring without a typical convertible’s wind noise. And Targas are currently great value…

Mick Pacey (above) runs 356, early 911 and 914 specialists Export 56 in Newport Pagnell, almost next door to Aston Works Service.

‘I think the market is going the same way as the 356s have gone – the earliest, rarest cars are going to be the ones to have. 

‘Service history adds to value and so does interesting provenance. A lot of cars have been restored badly many years ago but every now and again virtually untouched 911s turn up. They’re the ones to go for.  

‘If you want a hassle-free 911 then go for a mechanical fuel-injection car, because carburettors go out of balance. But carburettor cars are nippy through the gears and sound better. Personally, I love Targas too – they’re a unique design.’

Prices start just above £10,000 for 1970s Ts and Es but you need to pay double that or more for a good car. An S is now typically £60,000 and an RS can make £200k or more.

Even the earliest 911s are relatively reliable, or at least have the potential to be. But if a 911 has been neglected, sooner or later you’ll pay for that neglect. So, before anything else, look for extensive service records – oil changes every 3000 miles are crucial.

Watch the oil pressure closely. From cold it should be 40-60psi; once hot it will go up and down with the revs, and should be around 40psi at 4000rpm. Fumes in the cabin may be due to oil on the heat exchangers, which may burn off, but make sure the heater works – replacement heat exchangers are expensive.

 Try fast gearchanges, particularly from second to third – a crunch means worn synchro and an expensive rebuild. Vague gearshifting is usually easily fixed with replacement bushes. 

Rust can be a big problem. Look for bubbles on the B-post, around the door latch, a sure sign of big problems below: the ‘kidney bowl’ panels, sills, jacking points and inner wing could be affected. Feel around under all the arches, check the sunroof aperture, the underside of the parcel shelf (from inside the engine bay), the front edge of the boot under the spare wheel and all the usual extremities. Most but not all panels are available.

The Porsche factory supports early 911s really well, and its replacement panels are high quality but expensive. Non-genuine panels may be half the price but can take three or four times longer to fit – you do the maths!

Some pattern parts are worth having though, and a good specialist will advise you which are worth buying. Remember that you can end up paying hundreds for minor parts such as rear lights, bumper trims, seats and even door pockets – you have been warned!

There’s still the chance to buy a pre-impact bumper 911 for ‘reasonable’ money. But if you want to be competitive in motor sport, you will need to spend a lot more – and you need to consult the experts to avoid being sold a fake.

It’s much easier to buy the lower-powered models but the catch is that a 2.4T, for example, will cost the same to restore as an RS.

The biggest danger lies in the middle ground, cars that are perhaps a little scruffy around the edges. You will usually be better off with the best, most original car you can find, maybe settling for a great T or E rather than an average S, for example. Or buy the worst car and budget for a high-quality restoration. Crucially, make sure the car you buy has all the right bits.

While we love the RS and the S, prices have gone mad, and there’s a lot to be said for instead spending your money on a super example of a lower-powered model. Any pre-impact bumper 911 can be used everyday, or for touring holidays – and it will always look great.